Movement Trays

Movement trays have been around since..umm...guessing.. during the 1990s? There a dozens of wargaming bloggers use movement trays. DeanM WAB Corner , Christopher Bunker Hill , Cyrus Bucellarii and Rob Hawkins hobby blog are all influential...well to me anyway :o)

Movement trays are a game-changer for large-scale wargaming, drastically cutting down the time spent pushing individual models and keeping your ranks crisp. They are especially useful for "horde" armies or "rank and flank" systems like Warhammer and maybe DBMM?I use DBA-DBMM elements with my movement trays for Command Colors Ancients and Impetvs army units. Also I think, is one of the best ways to maximize your collection of miniatures without the nightmare of rebasing figures! :o)

Movement trays for De Bellis Multitudinis (DBMM) are a practical way to manage large groups of elements, especially during the early stages of a battle when moving in coherent lines or columns is more PIP-efficient. The DBMM system is element-based, not figure-based, battle groups are always chaning frontages during games so it may be impossible to have and difficult swapping different frontages trays just to move your grouped elements.

Impetvs 15mm frontages are 80mm one can use DBA/DBMM army elements to form up Impetvs battle groups depending on unit type i.e. Pikes I would use as a typical full strength Macedonian Pike block 2 by 4 (total 8 elements) The elements are removed during Command colors ancients and Impetvs games as casualties.

Left to Right of picture

80mm x 30mm, 80mm x 40mm, 80mm x 45mm, 80mm x 60mm

Pikes 2 Ranks Museum Miniatures "Z"Sculpts

Pikes 3 Ranks

Pikes 4 Ranks

Republican Romans 2 ranks Old Glory Miniatures

Republican Romans 3 ranks

Skirmishers 2 Ranks Xyston Miniatures

Auxiliary Light Infantry 2 Ranks

Bowmen 2 Ranks Essex Miniatures Goths

Warband 2 Ranks

Warband 3 Ranks

Warband 4 Ranks

Basing my Bases

Hi Guys, visitors and followers ask me how I do my basing? Here is my first attempt of a "step by step" basing process. One thing though before I go on, I don't like the idea of using 4-5 layers of prime shading colors and 2-3 dry brushing colors schemes on bases in my opinion its just a waste of time and unnecessary, unless working on Dioramas yeah sure go right ahead and use multicolored shades/tones etc. but not on little bases like DBA! :o) anyway I hope my amateurish article helps.... I prefer to use just 2 colors, one for priming and one for dry brushing the plywood bases.

Buff Fine Ballast.

Acrylic Paints.

Epirot Units/Elements before flocking.

I brush white glue on the bases first, place the stand in a small container/box of Fine Buff Ballast, and perform swirling actions to cover the whole base while the glue is still wet. Putting the stands aside for 24 hours before moving on to the next phase.

I use Acrylic Raw Sienna to paint and cover the whole Buff Ballast bases.

After priming the Fine Ballast bases, I put aside the stands for 2-3 hours or even wait until the next day for the bases to be completely bone dry. mind you, Brown Fine Ballast would be better to use saves time painting the primer/under coat.

 I use Ivory to dry brush over the Raw Sienna

After completing the priming and dry brushing I use Scenic Express Turf Grass

I use tweezers to pick up and position the Turf Grass on the bases. To secure the Turf Grass on the bases I use white glue.

Some of the finished Epirot DBA elements....